Keep Hope Alive – Bay Area, CA

Bet Jala - between Gilo and Har Gilo

2008-12-04T17:22:00.000-08:00

Another farmer who asked for our help lives in Bet Jala, but his olive and almond trees are in the valley between Gilo and Har Gilo - now on the other side of a checkpoint fence. He lives in the small shelter there to keep his access to the orchard and to ensure that no more of his land is taken over by the settlements all around. They cut off his access to water and electricity, nor allow him to add on to his shelter. It took two hours of waiting, and cricket play, but we were able to get through the checkpoint to harvest olives for the day.

While we waited outside Beitar Illit

2008-12-04T17:21:00.001-08:00

We waited around outside Beitar Illit for a while to see if they would change their mind. See how the Norwegians in our group passed the time!

Beitar Illit Settlement and the confiscation of olive trees

2008-12-04T17:15:00.000-08:00

A farmer thought that he might have an easier time harvesting his olive trees that have been fenced inside the illegal settlement of Beitar Illit, southwest of Bethlehem, if he had the help of internationals to help. He had all of the permissions signed, but we were not let inside the settlement to do so. Another farmer who is no longer given access to his orchard now attempts to work as a day laborer inside the settlement just to make ends meet. Because of our presence there that day, all of the day workers were not allowed in. Here what he has to say.

Abu Dis

2008-12-04T17:12:00.000-08:00

This neighborhood in East Jerusalem has been divided by the wall that separates families and businesses from one another. More illegal settlements continue to be built in East Jerusalem despite this violation against Oslo and the "Road Map."

Hebron - a view inside the occupation

2008-12-04T17:07:00.000-08:00

Hebron is the ancient city in Southern Judea where Abraham, Sarah, and Isaac are buried. It is also a place of contention, with extremist Israeli settlers attempting to take over the old city. We met a man whose home was being squatted by settlers, despite the Israeli Supreme Court decision to evict them. 2000 soldiers work here to protect 400 settlers that the government is considering removing because of their violence against Palestinian children on their way to school and civilians who live there.

Tel Megiddo

2008-12-04T17:03:00.000-08:00

Tel Megiddo is one of the most ancient cities in the world, having first been inhabited nearly 9,000 years ago and being rebuilt 28 times after successive sieges and processes of rebuilding. Because of its strategic position on the trade routes between Assyria and Egypt, controlling this city meant controlling trade throughout the entire region.

Picking Olives in the West Bank

2008-12-04T16:56:00.000-08:00

Keep Hope Alive is the Joint Action Initiative of the YMCA and YWCA in Palestine. They invite internationals to come plant trees and harvest trees each year. The Bay Area, CA Keep Hope Alive group sends two groups each year: a planting team in February and a harvest team in October. Harvesting on land most under threat from confiscation by settlers and the wall is an important part of this work of solidarity.

Elias Jabbour - House of Hope - Shefar Am, Israel

2008-12-04T16:44:00.000-08:00

Elias Jabbour is a Christian elder in the Galilean village who helps teach and lead the process of Sulha - Arabic for reconciliation. In our time with him, he describes the process and his hope for peace in Israel-Palestine.

Day 15 and Beyond

2008-11-06T12:25:00.000-08:00

Dear Friends,

Allan and Nancy said goodbye to Alvin, Bill and Will in Paris airport on Monday night to meet up with their daughter Karen for a week in France together. Late the next night, Alvin, Bill and Will arrived safely at SFO tired and still considering how we can best tell the fullness of what we experienced. Max went on to Spain (and caught some great waves!) and made it back on the 5th. Zelda remains to volunteer in various schools for the next few days. Do email Will at willymac4@comcast if you would like to schedule a presentation sometime after Thanksgiving.

Day 14 - More pictures while we wait for the taxi

2008-11-03T00:39:00.000-08:00

The Olive Press Co-operative in the Bethlehem area. Farmers bring their olives in here in a big bag, and walk away with large plastic jugs of pure olive oil. Then the next farmer comes in to have his family's olives pressed. We saw one man standing on the street selling his oil as soon as he was finished. Tasty stuff!

Day 13 - Worship in Jerusalem and Saying Goodbye

2008-11-03T00:26:00.001-08:00

Today we took a trip into Jerusalem to worship at St. George's Cathedral, the seat of the Arab Anglican Bishop of the region, Bishop Suheil. A bishop from England, Bishop John Parker gave the sermon and we participated in holy communion. The organ there was quite something to here, and it was good to be among other pilgrims from around the world worshiping together.

We had lunch in the old city, at a rooftop cafe overlooking the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and the Dome of the Rock. We then went to the Wailing Wall one last time, before making our way back to the bus. Boy was the bus crowded, with standing room only. You can't beat six shekels for a trip back to Bethlehem, having been taken advantage of by the taxi driver on the way in, but it was quite crowded for the locals who take this route everyday to their jobs in East Jerusalem.

Tonight we had an evaluation of the trip and a musical concert and celebration of our time together with the other internationals. The Al Arabia reporter that followed our groups showed the clips that she send in to Dubai about the olive harvest. A couple of them included interviews with us, including one clip about this blog, but the audio tracks weren't playing correctly so we couldn't hear part of it. Hearing Arabic for part of the clip, then nothing at all, made it all pretty funny to watch. We hope to get an English version of the clips sometime soon, but if you have satellite, look for us on Al Arabia. Some people left early in the morning, but our flight doesn't leave until Monday afternoon. See you all soon.

Day 12 - A Peaceful Day Near Nahalin

2008-11-02T23:51:00.000-08:00

Today, we went to a farm nestled between two hilltop outposts, makeshift settlements of trailers and small buildings placed on Palestinian land, where extreme Israeli settlers hope to further their expansion of other major settlements in the area around the small Palestinian villages of Jaba' and Nahalin. Once these settlers move in, however, the Israeli government runs roads, water, and power to these outposts, and then helps protect them with the military. Once these "facts on the ground" change, it is easier for politicians to include such areas within the Separation Wall that will run through this area. The farmer told us that the wall is planned to go around his village, separating him from two of his three fields, and the wall will go right through Jaba' separating neighbor from neighbor.

Despite this reality, this Muslim family goes about their work, harvesting their 200 olive trees and working to protect what is left of their land. Today's picking was more joyous and celebratory, as we have heard of past harvests, without the interruption of either soldiers or settlers. Since this was a Saturday, the whole family came out to pick olives, and kids were quite hilarious. Will's stomach was upset most of the day, and the father made an herbal tea for him. Here are some of the pictures that the children took of us today.

This afternoon we went to see the Olive Press co-op, a series of machines that clean, press, de-pit, and then compress the oil out of the mash. Quite a process.

Day Eleven - More Pictures

2008-10-31T11:57:00.001-07:00

Olive picking pictures.

Day 11 - A Full Day of Olives

2008-10-31T11:47:00.000-07:00

We left the hotel early to drive to Bet Jala, a suburb of Bethlehem, where we were to pick olives today. We arrived and met the farmer at a checkpoint that separates his land from the historic municipality of Bet Jala. The Israeli Defense Force placed the fence in between the farmer’s house and olive groves, and basically included him and his family in the jurisdiction of Greater Jerusalem. This means that only he and his family can help with the harvest of over 300 trees. Their neighbors up the hill left Palestine to move to Chile, where they could more easily make a living. When they are gone for three years, the Israeli government will claim the land and add it to the Gilo Settlement on the top of the hill – the reason presented as to why the family is separated from their neighbors in Bet Jala. Because his house is now on the other side of the wall, they will not allow him to drive his car through the accepted district of Jerusalem in Israel to his home. His only means of transportation is now a motor scooter, or the option to walk half a mile to the fence and then call a taxi from Bet Jala.

When the soldiers wouldn’t let us in, the farmer appealed to their superior, and we waited around in the sun for two hours. While we waited the British and Australians played cricket with some makeshift sticks and a hackysac. Zelda and Allan organized a litter pick-up in the adjoining olive tree field. The mother came out with tea, and we got to know the family better.

Eventually, they let us in after checking all of our passports, and drove back to check on us at regular intervals. Sometimes they waved, and once they gave us the “thumbs up.” It was a full day of hard labor. Will says, “My dad always told me that if I went to school I wouldn’t become a ditch digger.” So why do I keep finding labor-intensive service projects like building labyrinths and picking olives?

The family was very hospitable. They joined us in the picking and provided a great lunch under the shade of the olive trees were picking. We guess that we picked about 10-12 trees or 200 to 250 lbs of olives. Needless to say, we are all pretty sore and achy right now. 12 trees out of 300 isn’t a huge contribution, but we could tell that our presence and solidarity with the family meant a lot to them and their neighbors. The mother does handmade Palestinian embroidery of scarves, shirts, dresses, and purses. She invited everyone to come in and see what they would like. She is quite talented, and it looked like her quality was greater than that at the shops in Jerusalem. We took a brief tour of the area, driving to the Cremisan Franciscan Winery, which has been moved from the city of Bet Jala to the Greater Jerusalem district. The proximity of the massive settlements, built on their Palestinian neighbors land, continues to push those who remain to the margins of survival and separates them from their historic neighbors.

Day 10 – Conference in Bethlehem

2008-10-31T11:32:00.000-07:00

The YMCA and YWCA and the Alternative Tourism Group sponsored their first international conference our group went to today. Will was on a panel with Kristel Letchert of the Dutch Olive Tree Campaign who talked about strategies and Connie Hackbarth who spoke about what is going on in Jewish peace communities and justice for Palestinians. People from all over the world were there to talk about how we can work for a just peace between Israel and Palestine. Will spoke on the role of the church in this peace work.

Very serious and somewhat sad Palestinians and Syrians discussed the ongoing occupation of Gaza, the West Bank, and the Golan Heights. They gave numbers and statistics on what different advocacy groups are doing and can possibly do together to bring an end to the illegal occupation. It was well thought out, and the moderators kept the conversation focus. Over lunch, we were able to informally interact with other internationals and even met some good folks from Sacramento. It was a good time. We got a lot of ideas about what we can do when we come home, and we will be looking for churches, synagogues, mosques, and service organizations to show what life is like in the Occupied Territories. Do you want to host such a presentation in late November through January? Email Will at willymac4@comcast.net

We had dinner at the Grotto Restaurant with our friend Christy Reiners, who was Will’s teammate on the Peacemaking Program’s group of 100 in May of 2006. Good food, and good to catch up with Christy’s service projects here.

Day Nine - Palestinian Hospitality

2008-10-31T10:33:00.000-07:00

A fellow Presbyterian from Minnesota, who was on the Keep Hope Alive olive harvest last year, loaned Will McGarvey a cell phone for our use in Palestine. He also called a Palestinian businessman (Majdi) here in Beth Sahour to let him know we were here. While we were working on our blog Tuesday evening in the hotel lobby, we heard someone ask at the desk for Will. He came over and introduced himself and before we knew it, he had invited us (all 6 of us) to his home for dinner the following night. He brought us to his Bedouin gift shop where we met his oldest son and a couple from Minnesota---the Palestinian husband grew up with Majdi and met his wife in Minnesota some 26 years ago and come back often to Bethlehem. His family owns a garage not far from Majdi’s.

Majdi’s home is close to his shop so some of us could walk while he drove to park his car in the carport. He introduced us to his family; 3 sons and his wife. His wife prepared an excellent dinner but did not sit down to join us, apparently embarrassed about her English. Zelda mentioned that we had the custom of giving thanks before a meal and Majdi led us in an Arabic grace. We ate without cutlery but had enough Pita bread to move the food around off the small plates and into our mouths. The hit was his own prepared olives with broiled chicken, tomato salad, humus, cucumbers, vegetables and pickles. He showed us how to dip the bread in olive oil and a dish of zaater, a dry mixture of thyme and sesame seeds. Ummm. We have found the Palestinians very friendly and hospitable. Majdi told of his concern for his sons and his willingness to make a special sacrifice to send them to private schools to ensure a good education. He also takes an active part in their activities and their friends. When his sons meet new friends, he tells how he casually gets them to bring them to the store so that he can meet them and how he checks with his friends to find out about their families. He wants to make sure they don’t get in with a bad crowd and drugs.

While we were finishing up dinner, we heard 3 loud bangs and we all decided it was time to go home. Majdi drove Nancy, Zelda, and Bill back to the hotel, while Will, Allan and Alvin walked up to the main street, only to find the stores quickly closing up. While walking to the street, our eyes stung a little and we squeezed into the grocery store while they were closing. The proprietor was closing so we went out to the street and ducked back into a driveway between 2 buildings. We could see the Israeli solders coming down the street with their searchlight scanning the buildings. A taxi drove in front of us and we didn’t hesitate to jump in for a ride back to the hotel. Naturally, Majdi was worried about his oldest son in the shop and we felt relieved that he didn’t have to make a special trip back to the hotel for us and that he could go check on his son. Talk about hospitality.

The next morning, we learned from our guide that the Israeli army regularly harasses and encroaches on Palestinian territory (in this case, Bethlehem). We also learned at dinner this evening with an American from Walnut Creek that it is quite common for the Israeli army to arrest anyone they want. She told us how the Israelis went into the University and arrested 20 students who were in the 98 percentile and held them on administrative leave, meaning that no charges were filed but still they were detained. How ironic it is that we only hear about how dangerous the Palestinians are when in fact it is the stronger, better equipped (with US taxpayers money) Israeli’s that are causing a whole nation to live in fear and anxiety. Being in Palestine and seeing the roadblocks, high Walls, Israeli soldiers all carrying their guns with their finger ready to pull the trigger, one quickly realizes the real cause for the lack of peace in Palestine is the military’s quest to drive the Palestinians from their country.

Day Nine - More Pics

2008-10-29T14:17:00.001-07:00

Here are some more pictures. We caused quite a stir in the little village of Husan today as a group of 50 internationals. The children wanted to practice their English with us, and figure out what we were doing. It was a little hard to communicate with some, but they love to play games with us in the street. They loved to play the instruments of the Olive Picking Circus that are traveling with us. The teenage girls were pretty shy, but the younger boys and girls loved to take pictures with our cameras. As always, the highlights include meals shared by the families in back yards and the fields.

Day Nine - Twin Cities of Beitar and Husan

2008-10-29T12:52:00.000-07:00

Our olive picking today was scheduled to be at a Palestinian olive grove that is now within the fence of a settlement in Beitar Illit, a half an hour south of Bethlehem. There are 38,364 settlers living in this settlement in the heart of the West Bank. The owner of the olive grove had talked to the private security guards earlier in the week to schedule the harvest of the grove, but when we arrived in the bus the guards didn’t know what to do. First they said no, then the captain came and said yes, then the police came and said no, and then the Israeli Defense Forces came and said yes to harvesting some of the farmer’s trees outside the fence, then said no and made us get back on the bus, and then after discussing it some more they did let us harvest outside the fence. And so we sat on the bus for a couple of hours, getting off when they said yes, only to return when the said no a few minutes later.

Settler’s from the settlement came out and watched the proceedings at the checkpoint. A journalist and camera crew from Al Arabiya News has been with us this week following our harvesting tour. They kept the cameraman busy with questions about what was on his tape, and told him he could go in if he erased his tape, including the previous interviews on them. Of course, he said no. Some of the settlers came over and watched us do the harvest along with the soldiers. Some of the settlers gave interviews to the journalist while we did the harvesting, giving their views about how the land belongs to the settlers, even though their houses have been built on privately owned Palestinian land. One settler mentioned that the Palestinians will all be expelled from the state of Israel, to Saudi Arabia or Iraq, even those who own their homes and orchards across the street in the town of Han. When the Palestinians leave, this land will be ours as promised in the Torah. Another settler said that “the settlers inside there are out of their mind, so don’t send the harvesters in there or the settlers will kill them.”

Abu Najy, the landowner has been assaulted by settlers four times while working on his trees within the settlement. Another time settlers have come and broken the windows and dented the sides of his car. Abu Najy was offered some 15 million shekels (over $4 million) for his land, but he refused. Still, the settlers treat his land as their own. Some of his Arab neighbors who own part of the land that the settlers have built upon are now day laborers, working for the people who have stolen their land. One such worker came over to the bus to thank us for our witness, but shared his sadness that our presence cost him a day’s work because they closed the checkpoint to all day laborers. Despite the fact we couldn’t help the farmer with his harvest, we found that our presence reminded those around us, both Israeli and Palestinian, of the injustices happening on a daily basis. It seems that there is no such thing as respect for the rule of law here, and no implementation of International Law. The Israeli Civil Administration has established two set of laws: one for Jews and another set that is far more restrictive for the Palestinians.

Day Eight – Jerusalem, more pictures

2008-10-28T12:25:00.000-07:00

Day Eight – Jerusalem, the rest of the story

2008-10-28T11:25:00.000-07:00

After lunch, we took a driving tour of the political situation going on in the holy city. We drove around the Old City east to Ma’ala Adumim, the large Israeli settlement east of Jerusalem. We drove through the tunnel and then through the desert to what looks like an expensive suburb with green grass, mature olive trees, and strip malls. In many ways, upon entering this city one is reminded of other affluent neighborhoods, with pools, and gyms, and upscale California Mediterranean housing and industrial parks. But after learning a bit more from Angela Godfrey-Goldstein of the Israeli Committee Against Housing Demolition, it seems that looks deceive.

These homes for 40,000 newcomers to Israel were built on land that 86% of which was privately held and confiscated from Palestinian Arabs. A number of Bedouin families have been forced to evacuate from the Negev and relocated in the area that is now the site of a new outpost that settlers hope to expand into a full blown city. The homes for these settlers have been built on a site that surrounds the water access formerly available to the Bedouin families. The ancient olive trees within the settlement have been uprooted from Palestinian farms and replanted within the settlement’s squares to give the impression that these settlements have been a permanent part of the landscape.

In addition to the settlements that are expanding the reach of Jerusalem to the east, there are a number of mini-settlements and compounds growing within Arab East Jerusalem, the suburb next to the Old City that Palestinians have hoped would be the capitol of a Palestinian State in the future. Further complicating life for the residents within East Jerusalem is the presence of a 28 foot tall concrete “Security Barrier.” Rather than separating Jewish and Arab neighborhoods, this wall is situated in a way that separates Arab from Arab neighbors, and cuts off the historic road from Jerusalem to Jericho mentioned by Jesus in the parable of the Good Samaritan.

We also saw the effects of the Israeli policy on home building permits. While Jewish Israelis regularly receive building permits, Arab Israelis and citizens within the West Bank are regularly denied. After waiting years for an unavailable permit, people often go ahead and build on their property, even though the can expect to receive a demolition order. Since 1967, there have been 18,600 demolitions of such homes, and there are currently hundreds of demolition orders placed on other homes and apartment buildings. This is another way the Israeli government is making life hard for Palestinians and encouraging them to leave their ancestral homeland. This policy makes it easier for Jewish settlers to squat on the land and take it over.

If the wall were being built along the Green Line, the accepted boundary according to International Law in 1967, then the wall wouldn’t be twice as long as the boundary line. Instead, the wall cuts deep into the West Bank to claim a significant amount of the most arable land and water resources. Here, like in other places, the wall isn’t about securing Jewish safety within Israel but increasing the process of ethnic transfer and a land grab to make even Arab East Jerusalem a part of a Jewish “Greater Jerusalem,” extending from West Jerusalem to the furthest settlements beyond Ma’ala Adumim. This effectively cuts any future Palestinian state in the West Bank into two cantons, making a two state solution to the conflict that much more difficult to achieve.

Day Eight – Jerusalem, city of peace

2008-10-28T10:00:00.000-07:00

We spent today in many parts of Jerusalem. The sheer conglomeration of the city can be too much. History stacks on top of history. The shopping, both among tourists and locals: Christians buying incense. The owner of the coffee shop yelling at his teenage sons upstairs. The women trying on bras over their clothes. The smells, the bells, the prayers in Hebrew, Arabic, Russian, Armenian, and even English. No matter who has sacked the city in the past, the city comes back.

We were walking down an alleyway in the Armenian Quarter after visiting the Wailing Wall, and looking up there was a tree growing out of the side of a building. Life, anew, growing out of the barren sandstone of a building hundreds of years old.

In the streets it was organized chaos. Pilgrims, worshippers, tourists, all walking around, and there we were in the holiest place for multiple religions. People bumping into you as you walk, slippery stones, and yet it was pleasurable and inspiring at the same time. Quite a dichotomy, yet wonderful.

Some of us connected with the holy sites, and others did not. It is hard to fully connect to other people’s faith tradition. For one person, little connection - it was one thing to pray at the Wailing Wall knowing that some of those around you are praying for the destruction of the Dome of the Rock so the Temple can be rebuilt. For another, gratitude in praying - remembering past prayers made there, for a mother who was independent and in good health at the time. For still another, holy site envy – envy for the historicity, impressiveness, and attention given to the sites of others – until he walked into the Church of the Holy Sepulcher for the first time. Then awe. The beauty of the architecture and iconography, the mix and match of the buildings added on over the centuries, and the aromatic prayers breathed in and out of pilgrim’s lungs. We missed the Dome of the Rock, since it was closed because of concern of settler violence.

No matter where one is at the time, going to Jerusalem is an awesome experience. Whether one connects with the layers of history, the shopping, the holy sites, or just people watching, it can take one back to the sacred in a way not experienced in other places.

Goats heads and not so holy gates - Max

2008-10-27T11:28:00.000-07:00

Stream of thought here, pitching in while others are out. The tourist industry is just that, an industry. They have it wired to shuffle you through the various religious sites and onto the restaurant that give kickbacks. The "Jesus Boat" took the cake for cheesy, playing the riders national anthem, as if that somehow had something to do with Jesus and the sea of Galilee. They even gave out certificates saying, "you rode this replica of a replica of a boat Jesus might have sailed on," or something like that. Still, I loved the water and the boat. My next favorite comedy of the trip was the chain smoking tour guide for the Church of the nativity. He had learned his shtick at the cafes in France, and translated it into an angry tour guide pointing at Holy sites with a cigarette butt. Third place prize for most absurd is the "wilderness" experience where four hundred tourists are funneled into a narrow parking lot,shuffled like lemmings through a turn style...when for miles in every direction there is actual wilderness with not a soul to interrupt ones spiritual contemplation.

Both the tour of the refugee camp and the tour of Hebron were "real". And while depressing for real reasons, refreshing for our immersion in actual life in the Holy Land. Israel proper is so European and developed the Christian sites often feel about as Holy as riding a fake cable car over the Golden Gate, but old Hebron is alive, even in its death. Fresh goats heads, complete with blood, hair and teeth, resting outside the shop in front of the closed cave like road that should lead to the vegetable market. The steal gate, metal detector and soldiers reminding us that the Grave of Abraham and family is not quite as Holy as we might hope. Then again, the tourist is the outsider here, and the seriously religious the norm, indicating perhaps, that we Christians don't quite share the same theology of space. Recall the response of Jesus to the woman at the well, "One day we will not be concerned about whether to worship God on this mountain or that (on this side of the temple or that) but we will worship in Spirit and in Truth." Maybe, since for Christians the "Kingdom of God is within you" means our "Holy Sites" are doomed to be shallow, or to put it differently, our real Holy sites are to be found deep in the heart of live human beings, in the harvest of olives and the breaking of bread with a farmer and his family.

Day Seven - Hebron

2008-10-27T09:07:00.000-07:00

Today, we went to Hebron and met with the Hebron Rehabilitation Committee. This is an NGO that raises funds internationally to rebuild old Hebron. Historically, there was a small Jewish community in Hebron, which both Jews and Muslims mark as the burial place of the Patriarchs and Matriarchs – Abraham, Sarah, and Isaac are entombed inside the historic mosque. There has been conflict between the Jewish and Muslim community here over the ages, with the Jewish landowners leaving their homes. Since 1968, different groups of Jewish Settlers have snuck into the Hebron and established settlements, with an official settlement being established just over the hill. There are five small zones near the heart of Hebron where hard-core settlers have built buildings, even in places without permissions. They are trying to expand these five small settlements, with only 400 settlers, to take over all of the old city. The old school has been transformed into a Sheva. Homes that Palestinians hold deeds to are now in the hands of these settlers. And the mosque has been separated into both a synagogue and a mosque after a Jewish settler opened fire on Muslims praying there a few years. This city of 185,000 Palestinians is being held hostage because of 400 settlers.

There continues to be much conflict between the two groups, despite the presence of over 2,000 IDF soldiers guarding the 400 settlers. There have been instances where settlers have assaulted local Palestinians with the soldiers looking on. While the Christian Peacemaking Team does not have an active presence on the ground, the Ecumenical Accompaniers still remain. Despite all of the harassment and inconvenience, life goes on with vigor in this, the largest city in the West Bank.

Day Six - additional pictures

2008-10-26T22:18:00.001-07:00

We had a "wild and crazy guy" for a tour guide through Bethlehem. We wonder what kind of Saturday Night Live skit they could make with a guide pointing to everything with his cigarette. More pictures from the Refugee Camp.

Day Six - Tour of Bethlehem

2008-10-26T13:02:00.000-07:00

This afternoon, we took a tour of the Bethlehem District. We entered the Bethlehem area again, going through the hill country to the south. This is a diverse place, with desert hills in one valley, and agricultural groves of olives, almonds, and small gardens in the next. We went to the Church of the Nativity, and looked around at the shops in the square nearby. We then went and walked through the Deheisha Refugee Camp. The 850 refugees kicked out of their villages and farms in 1948 have continued to live inside a camp run through the United Nations. This is the longest running refugee camp in the world. What started as a camp of tents has become a cramped neighborhood of 12,000 awaiting the implementation of their rights of return according to International Law. We ended the day with a tour of the YMCA grounds, which include a grotto – perhaps the cave of the shepherds. The YMCA has a teen program, summer camps, and on ongoing vocational rehabilitation program for those disabled after administrative detention, torture, or home invasion. Dinner was great again. We continue to get to know the Norwegian, Dutch, and other members of our team.

Day Six - The work of picking

2008-10-26T12:28:00.000-07:00

We started at the top of the slope in the grove closest to the caravans – the most recent additions to the settlement – directly adjacent to the olives. It didn’t take long for us to get into the routine of laying down the drop-cloths, setting up ladders, picking and dropping the olives into the bucket. It also didn’t take long for a group of settlers to watch us over the barb-wire fence with a rifle, yelling something in Hebrew, and some of them crossed over onto the farmer’s land. Then a group of minstrels came singing and playing instruments as they approached us. They are called the “Band from the Olive Tree Circus,” a group that came to support us and pick with us. They sang peace songs in English, Hebrew, and Arabic and were great fun. Then the settler’s went back on their side of the fence, and we went back to our work of helping the farmer collect his olives without being harassed.

Around noon, lunch was served by the family and we enjoyed them and each other.

Day Six - Our First Olive Harvest Experience

2008-10-26T11:51:00.000-07:00

Up and atta ‘em, early. We took the circle road around Bethlehem to the site of today’s olive picking just outside of Efrata Settlement. The road to the farm was cut off by barriers, so the bus let us off about a half a mile away from the grove. We walked the whole way, carrying tarps, buckets, and ladders. As we started our walk up the slope to the grove, we were followed by a jeep with IDF soldiers. They must have been called by one of the neighbors, and came to talk to the farmer and our tour leader. They demanded the farmer’s identification papers, questioning the reason for internationals on his property. Eventually the soldiers left, leaving us to our work, but not before citing our bus driver and detaining for 3 hours.

Day Five - Driving down to Jericho and the Dead Sea

2008-10-25T13:37:00.000-07:00

Today, we drove from Nazareth to Jericho, and took the tram ride up the hill to look over the valley. Right next to the tram is a refurbished Greek Orthodox Monastery, called the Mount of Temptation. Inside, we met a monk from Canada who showed us the living quarters and then opened up another locked door - he must have liked us - to show us the chapel. Amazing. The chapel includes artifacts that are hundreds of years old and icons of Jesus' three temptations in the wilderness.

After Jericho, we went to Qumran and heard the story of the finding of the Dead Sea Scrolls which were preserved by the Essene community that lived there. Then we went to the Dead Sea and floated around for a while. What a great feeling to be in the water or cover oneself in the slick, black, nourishing clay.

We then drove through Jerusalem to Bethlehem, and then on to meet the other olive harvesters from all around Europe, including Norway, Sweden, Netherlands, Australia, Switzerland, and England. They were expecting 30 or so to come, but this year there are over 80 participating in the olive harvest.

Today, we said goodbye to Raed and Whalid, our able guide and driver.

Day Four - Getting back to the blog

2008-10-25T12:46:00.000-07:00

The computer we were primarily using to post on this blog got a software corruption and is out of commission until we return home. :^( - @#*~! Fortunately, we found a way to get back online with another computer.

On Friday, we spent the day on and near the Sea of Galillee. First we went to the Church of the Beatitudes, right next to a natural amphitheater carved into the side of the hill. We listened as all of the Sermon on the Mount was read for us. Next we went to Tabgha, the traditional site of the miracle of the sharing - the multiplication of the loaves and fishes - where a 4th century mosaic of the loaves and fishes is preserved in the church there. Next, we went to the site of Peter's rehabilitation after his three denials (John 21), and we waded in the water. (Actually, Max went swimming.)

Then we went on a boat ride on a large powerboat with pilgrims from the U.S. and the Netherlands. Later, we went to Capernaum and saw the ruins of the 4th century Synagogue there, within easy eyesight of what they believe to be Peter's house, that became the site of various octagonal churches over the years.

One of the highlights of the day was eating "St. Peter Fish" at a local restaurant. These flaky white fish were yummy, but they left the heads on to watch as we ate.

Day Three – Israeli Peacemakers

2008-10-23T13:34:00.000-07:00

Tonight we had dinner with Diana and Michal from New Profile, an Israeli movement for the "Civil-ization of Israeli Society." We talked about the policy of mandatory service in the military for young Jewish and Druze citizens of Israel, male and female. What was surprising was that most Israelis think that every young person serves in the military, yet only around 50% of them actually end up serving. Besides those whose who get medical and mental health exemptions, the Orthodox Jews, married women, those with criminal records and others with questionable characters don't serve in the military. Most citizens don't realize that there is a growing number of young people refusing to enlist, or if they do enlist, refusing to serve in the Occupied Territories. New Profile doesn't encourage young people to refuse service in the military, but they do support those who make the choice to do so, for whatever reason. This would be kind of like being a secular Quaker in America. In working for peace, they see their task as working for a more peaceful society in Israel by supporting those whose conscience prohibits them from serving their country in the military and would rather serve in other ways.

Day Three – Kufar Yosif

2008-10-23T09:45:00.000-07:00

Later this afternoon, we visited St. George’s Orthodox Church and School in the village of Kufar Yosif in Galillee. Unlike Ibilin, this new school that just began last year, must charge the families $100.00 a month per student since they do not receive either government funds or outside support. Like other parochial schools in Israel, they are heavily dependant on outside donations to keep the burden on parents to a minimum.

Day Three – Ibilin

2008-10-23T09:21:00.000-07:00

Later this morning, we went to Archbishop Chacour's school and church in Ibilin, another small village town in the Galillee. Ibilin was just a small town in 1965 when then Father Chacour was assigned there. Today it is a growing village with first-rate schools, thanks in large part to Archbishop Chacour, who has expanded the buildings to include education through the high school level. The children were very friendly, eager to meet us and practice their English. The school reminds Allan of DLS and Carondolet with strong athletics and emphasis on academics, and a high rate of college entrance among its students. The students learn Arabic, Hebrew, and English compared to the Hebrew schools in the region where they do not teach Arabic. There is still discrimination at the local swimming pool, where they cannot speak Arabic for fear of being excluded. Before the war with Lebanon the school had Jewish students in the mix, but now this Melkite Roman Catholic high school has a 70% Muslim and 30 % Christian population.

Day Three – ADRIDP

2008-10-23T09:15:00.000-07:00

Today we visited the Association for the Defense of the Rights of Internally Displaced Persons in Nazareth. This NGO works to protect the rights of Arab Israelis who were moved from their ancestral villages, and not allowed to return, after the 1948 war. While UN Resolution 194 protects their rights of return, the Israeli government hasn't allowed the indigenous population to return to their homes, even in those rare circumstances when the Supreme Court has decided in their favor. These villages either remain uninhabited or were replaced with Israeli towns.

The right of return remains one of the thorniest parts of the ongoing negotiations for a lasting peace in the region. While many of those who have the right of return under International Law have moved across the globe and may not wish to return, compensation for them would need to be addressed in such peace talks.

Day Three – Allan's Birthday

2008-10-23T08:15:00.000-07:00

Last night and this morning, we celebrated Allan's 66th birthday. Yesterday, Elias Jabbour gave him cake, and the Hotel surprised him with a roman candle in baklava. This afternoon, at a special lunch hosted by the family of Ra'eb, our guide, he was surprised by yet another birthday cake! Happy birthday Allan, and don't expect Nancy to keep up with this year's celebrations come next year.

Day Two – Haifa & Acco

2008-10-22T12:47:00.000-07:00

This afternoon, we visited Mussawa, an Arab Israeli NGO working against racism of all kinds in Israel. We learned that not only Arabs experience racism here, but so do Russian Jews, Reformed Jews, Mizrakhi Jews, and especially the 100,000 Ethiopian Jews. Because the schools are based on either Arab or Hebrew language instruction, there is a separate system for Jews and Arabs in Israel. But public Arab schools are not funded as equally as the Hebrew schools, and so Mussawa Center lobbies and advocates for equality for Arabs in Israeli society.

We had lunch overlooking the Haifa and the Bay between there and Acco. What a beautiful view. We went to the Stella Mares church at the top of Mt. Carmel. The 1930s era church is built over a cave purported to be the one in which the prophet Elijah hid in from King Ahab. Since Haifa is a relatively new city, being built mostly on land filled in near the ocean, this church had served as a monastery for various orders in the past.

Day Two – Shefar'am

2008-10-22T10:26:00.000-07:00

On the road again! Today we visited Elias Jabbour at the House of Hope International Peace Center in Shefar'am. Elias told us about his hope for peace as a Christian peacemaker who practices Sulha – the Palestinian form of reconciliation. As an elder in his village, Elias is called upon to join other elders from the Jewish, Muslim, and Druze communities as mediators. When an incident that could lead to more violence occurs, such elders go to the families of both parties and beg to allow them to make Sulha. They then negotiate with each family, attempting to bring about some negotiated peace that will end the cycle of violence. In the case of a killing, it could cost the family many thousands of dollars in compensation. When an agreement is found, both families come together and shake hands, and then they eat a meal, and when the coffee is served the peace has been made and both families cannot bring this old conflict back into the future. Because a just peace has been brought about, the vast majority of the Sulhas are not broken, especially because such an act would bring shame to the whole family.

Elias has a warm and buoyant personality that inspires one to be a peacemaker, without taking sides, and working with others to see such peace become a reality.

2008-10-21T11:37:00.000-07:00

Getting around can be pretty confusing. Fortunately, we have an able guide and driver to get us around. Our guide, Raeb, knows much about the region and weaves readings from the Bible into his descriptions of the names and places we are visiting. Another picture of the roadside – and the road side signs in Hebrew, Arabic, and English. Tomorrow we go to Shafer Am, Jaifa and Acco.

Day One – Nazareth, Church of the Annunciation

2008-10-21T11:26:00.000-07:00

Zelda writes, "Walking into the forecourt of the Church of the Annunciation one is surrounded by high walls enriched by oversized icons. These mosaics are expressions of devotion to the Holy Mother. Countries from around the world have offered their version of mother and child incorporating clothing and ethnic features typical of their population. Stunning and heart touching are the colors and bejeweled reflections of spirituality of peoples in every corner of this wide world."

Day One – Nazareth, Church of the Annunciation

2008-10-21T10:54:00.001-07:00

Nancy enjoyed the museum at the Church of the Annunciation, located over the accepted site of where Mary and Joseph lived. Our guide described the many basilicas and churches that had been build and destroyed over the centuries. They recently found 5 capitals buried nearby, that were removed by the crusaders upon the church’s immediate threat by the Berbers. The art inside the Church centers on Mary as Theotokos – the God-bearer. Depictions of Mary from many different countries and cultures are expressed both inside the church and in the colonnade outside.

Day One – Tel Megiddo Water

2008-10-21T10:42:00.001-07:00

Allan liked the tunnel connecting the spring and its the safe water source to the city. We walked down the tunnel and out through the exit. This was one of the earliest such water projects known to humankind. Since the springs were outside of the city walls, the tunnel allowed them to close up the outside access to the spring and help the city survive outside threats. Here is a picture of Alvin Huie walking down the long set of stairs.

Day One – Tel Megiddo Altar

2008-10-21T10:35:00.001-07:00

Most interesting to Will, was the 4700 year old circular altar uncovered in the ruins. There were chicken and goat bones in the altar that helped the archeologists date this Canaanite site. There was also evidence of human sacrifice here. The 28 layers of ruins at the site point to 28 conquests and rebuildings of the fortress.

Day One - Tel Megiddo

2008-10-21T10:04:00.000-07:00

Today we slept in a bit, getting a little extra sleep after checking in at the hotel at 2:30 am local time. After a good breakfast, we went to Tel Megiddo (aka Har Megiddo - Armegeddon), and walked through the ruins. This ancient city was inhabited for 7,000 years from circa 9,000 bce to 400 bce. It is in a strategic place at the crossroads of the ancient trade routes between Europe and Mesoptamia in the North and Egypt in the South.

As you can see from the photo, we are now a group of 7 (the magnificent seven, as we have named ourselves). We already miss Betty Brown, who didn't make the trip due to an unforeseen illness of her husband Forrest. We miss you Betty!

Getting ready for the Pilgrimage

2008-10-12T15:50:00.000-07:00

Today we met to go over final travel arrangements for our group going to the holy land. Keeping all of our travel arrangements has been a bit tricky since some of us are leaving early. It will be good to go back to Israel-Palestine.

Welcome to KHA California

2008-10-09T20:10:00.001-07:00

Welcome to the blog for the Keep Hope Alive team.

This group of eight people from the Bay Area, Northern California will be traveling in October and November of 2008 to Israel-Palestine for a service-learning mission trip with the Joint Action Initiative of the YWCA-YMCA. Olive trees are symbolic of many things: peace, land ownership, prosperity, and the blessing of the Lord.

Each year we try to send at least two teams to Israel-Palestine. One in February to plant olive trees and one in October to help with the olive harvest. The California KHA team consists of members of the Redwoods, San Francisco, and San Jose Presbyteries. Our first group of 20 people went in February 2002 to plant trees and have been tireless in sharing about their experiences and hosting educational events since then. One day, we hope to be able to offer group trips in the summer for educators, students, and seminarians.

Please check back at this site starting October 19th to meet our team, and hear about our trip to the Holy Land. May peace prevail in all parts of the world.